Foam

Why do people still buy memory foam when latex foam is so much better?
I know some people are worried about allergic reactions to latex but I never heard of anyone getting a reaction from their latex mattress. Before I bought mine I have searched all over and never seen anything that suggests that this has ever happened. Most if not all the reactions I ever hear of was in medical us of closed cell latex.

Now as for why I think latex is much better than memory foam. Latex foam is much cooler to sleep on than memory foam, and there is even a new technology that is even cooler it is called Celsion latex. Celsion is made in the U.S.A. From Latexinternational the highest quality latex you can buy. Memory foam will slowly conform to your body as your heat softens it. Memory foam also takes time to come back to its original position leaving you a hole when you turn at night. Latex foam also will conform to your body but comes back very quickly not leaving a hole to fall into. You can buy latex toppers different firmnesses to make your bed prefect. There are two websites that I know of that sell Latexinternational products www.flobeds.com and if you want Celsion www.sleeplikeabear.com I bought mine at sleeplikeabear.com and I love it. I will never go back to memory foam.

You are probably a spammer. But anyway, Latex is much more bouncy and feels like a trampoline compared to memory foam. Cheaper material, much less comfortable and not really comparable to Tempurpedic.

My eventer has just been retired from her job and I’m looking to use her very lightly as a trail horse. Being a TB, she is still spooky, looky, and zoomy- and my english saddle just isn’t cutting it for security or my comfort!
I’m looking for an inexpensive western, aussie or cross over saddle ( I love McClellan saddles as well) that would fit my girl- she wears her Wintec 500 AP (about five years old, no suede seat!) with the medium gullet (though she tends towards the narrow side of that, so think medium/medium narrow able) and a 3/4 neoprene foam (closed cell) riser that barely does it- my saddle needs a riser on every horse I’ve put it on, as far as I can remember- it sits low and hard on the horse’s back otherwise. I use a towel under the cantle on the fat Dutch WB I ride- both sweat evenly, no dry spots or ouchy spots as far as I can tell.

Is there an inexpensive saddle that would be more comfortable? I’m looking for a suede seat/ deep seat for security when she spins and I love synthetic. I also prefer english rigging when possible but I have a tendency to loose feeling in my toes over rides. A LIGHT saddle would also be an option! I’m looking for something less than 200$ or something I can find used.

Thanks!
Rory

Try finding a stock saddle- thats what a lot of breakers use becaus eof the support.
Instead of a riser check out this product – EPS saddle correctional system- I have been using one for a while now and they are great for comfort and ajustments to your saddle (just google and you will find the page)
Also encourage him to work with his head low and this will encourage him to stay calm when he is out

I’m trying to find certain products to make a craft version of a taxidermy wolf; a pup and an adult. However i have trouble looking for stuff on the internet. Here are the things i need to know:

1. What should i use to make the maniquenne, and where can i find the supplies needed?

2. Would Faux Fur work?

I originally thought about using wood and closed-cell foam for the maniquinne, and the faux fur makes it animal friendly. what do y’all think about what i’m asking?
I forgot to add some details details to my question. I’ve been to numerous sites about my question, but they weren’t able to help me out on the model.

I’m trying to make the model from scratch, that way it’s more valuable to me than buying a premade model from a taxidermy store.

Van Dykes taxidermy has the body forms, glass eyes and all that other stuff. Fake fur will work as well as the quality of the fake fur. Really nice soft fake fur will work better than that scratchy carnival stuffed animal junk!
Good Luck!!

hey i was just wanting to know why do my feet roll to the outside of my stirrup. i was wanting to know because my foot starts to hurt really bad after about 3 or 4 hours of riding. I do endurance and i need to know how to fix it and or why it happens. oh i don’t know if this matters but just in case it dose i use endurance stirrups with the closed cell foam and the stirrup is 5" wide and 4" deep i also ride with long stirrups but i have proper riding boots. well if you have any ideas to help me please responds thanks.
oh i mostly grip with my legs

do you grip with your legs or your seat?

Then try gripping with your legs less and more with your seat… more thigh work really. I used to have the same problem… my trainer for some reason made me turn my feet out as much as I can and told me to only grip with my calves so that she can see light through my knees, then I took lessons from a dressage trainer and she told me opposite.. she said grip with your seat, and touch the knee rolls just enough to where I cant see any light. And she just basically forced me to turn my toes in, she also gave me a tip, put some of your weight on the outside of your foot, but do a little bit by a little bit, going from toes out to toes in works muscles you didnt know about, I should know, I went through it haha

I need some for my science fair project. One site send to get a camp pad at Walmart but its too big. I only need about 24" x 18". Can anyone name an inexpensive closed cell foam sheet and where? It needs to be something I can get at Walmart, Target, Lowes, or some other common store? (I live in the middle of nowhere so I can’t go to any specialty stores. The nearest mall is about a half hour away.)
Emphasis on NAME of product.

name of product would be = craft foam
you should be able to get it at any store with a craft department or hardward/home improvement store

I need some for my science fair project. One site send to get a camp pad at Walmart but its too big. I only need about 24" x 18". Can anyone name an inexpensive closed cell foam sheet and where? It needs to be something I can get at Walmart, Target, Lowes, or some other common store? (I live in the middle of nowhere so I can’t go to any specialty stores. The nearest mall is about a half hour away.)
Emphasis on NAME of product.

name of product would be = craft foam
you should be able to get it at any store with a craft department or hardward/home improvement store

I live in a closet…well not really, but the room is 11′ x 11′. Small. I’ve been planning on putting in a rather small soundproof box in my closet for recording (small as in 5′ x 3′ x 6′ ).

My plan is to make it with a red oak frame and MDF, as neither of them resonate well. I was going to insulate it with a combination of cork board and acoustic closed-cell foam, and then float the whole thing above my carpet with said foam. All the corners and such would be caulked with acoustical caulk, and then spray foam to hit everything the cork and foam missed.

Am I wrong in my choice of materials? Doesn’t it make more sense to use something that doesn’t resonate for soundproofing it?

Much thanks guys.

The acoustic tioles sound like a good idea, try to find an alternative to the plyboard, mdf sux.

Cover the whole thing with a blanket or two, and make it collapsable.

Duct tape?

Hi, I am in the process of replacing the plywood floor of my old fiberglass boat. I’m very mechanically inclined, but it is mostly automotive, not so much marine construction. However, I’ve decided to tackle this one myself.

So far, I have ripped out the old floor. I’ve removed the carpet, and cut the edged of the plywood around the boat. The old floor was rotted, so I have to replace it. Basically, I now have a boat with glassed stringers, and nothing else. The foam that was in there was obviously open-cell because it was water-logged. It wasn’t molded foam, it was more like 2 by 4’s of foam. I have decided to replace it with closed cell foam.

Okay, now to my questions. From my research, this is what I plan to do. If you have a more practical route, please let me know.

1. I will order some sort of pour in polyurethane foam. I think this will be a good idea because it is closed cell, and will virtually eliminate all negative space. The boat is a 14 foot tri-haul fiberglass boat, so the stringers are pretty shallow. How much foam do you think I’ll have to order?

2. I’m going to sand down the foam, and nail plywood over that. I’m thinking 1/4 inch to keep weight down. I’ve read that it makes a difference weather or not you use marine quality plywood. Regardless, I’m planning on glassing over it so will it actually make a difference? Is 1/4 inch okay?

3. After I screw down the plywood, with stainless steel screws of course, I am planning on fiberglassing it. This is what I need most help on. Is it like bondo? Do I have to lay fiberglass sheets? Like the fabric stuff.

4. After it cures, I’m going to sand it, and apply some sort of marine paint. I’ll make sure it has the texture in it to prevent slipping. I don’t want to put carpet back down because it is heavy, and it smells when it gets wet and never dries.

So, if anyone has done this before and has some pointers, by all means let me know. I am basically starting from scratch so all advice will be appreciated. And for those of you who are experts in this, product brand names, and types, will also be helpful. Also, estimated amounts of material needed for a 14 foot boat would be helpful.

Thank you SOOOO much in advance for any help you have to offer.

Have a great day!!! (or night for that matter…)

Let’s start with the plywood. In the old days marine plywood had water proof glue and other types did not. Now almost all plywood uses water proof glue.

1/4′ is to thin. the weight will not make a big difference, you need the strength….go with 1/2 inch.

I don’t know what you are going to Screw to…….you normally "glass it in place. Use polyester (fiberglass) resin and yes the "cloth" strips to join the plywood at the edges and stringers. Then a light cloth or mat (16 oz.) and more fiberglass resin to coat the floor. you can add non-skid material if you like but do a test first to see if you really want it.

Bondo is filled polyester resin. That’s not what your looking for.

I know alot about urethane foam in boats. i think it will be easier to buy Foam board, 1" and 11/2" thick and just lay it in place. You can get this at Home Depot (the yellow not the pink foam with foil on one side, plastic on the other. Cuts with razor knife (I can hear the moans now) Yes I know……but in your case the foam in place is an added complication. If you fill 75-80% of the void your good to go, and this will not adsorb water like the other foam did. And just fit is as best you can, don’t worry about sanding it down. Even put two or more layers where you need to.

Fiber glass "cloth" actually looks like cloth. Mat on the other hand is random and works better for floors.
Mix pigment in the resin and you will not need to paint at all. experiment, and get pigment at the paint store (you can also use a thickener or micro balloons).

On a 14′ tri hull three sheets of plywood will have some left over…..a 1 1/2 gal of resin 2 packs 60×90 mat, maybe 30 ft of 6" strip cloth. Some filler and pigment…3 or 4 4×8 boards of foam.

If you deside to decide to foam in place the kits come in 2 quarts/ or 2 gal. You want to get 2 pounds per cubic foot density pour foam. and your going to need 8 to 10 cubic feet. that’s a 2 gal.kit.

You can get wood and foam at home Depot/ Lowes and fiberglass resin there or auto parts places, also at Walmart.

Good Luck!

Hi, I am in the process of replacing the plywood floor of my old fiberglass boat. I’m very mechanically inclined, but it is mostly automotive, not so much marine construction. However, I’ve decided to tackle this one myself.

So far, I have ripped out the old floor. I’ve removed the carpet, and cut the edged of the plywood around the boat. The old floor was rotted, so I have to replace it. Basically, I now have a boat with glassed stringers, and nothing else. The foam that was in there was obviously open-cell because it was water-logged. It wasn’t molded foam, it was more like 2 by 4’s of foam. I have decided to replace it with closed cell foam.

Okay, now to my questions. From my research, this is what I plan to do. If you have a more practical route, please let me know.

1. I will order some sort of pour in polyurethane foam. I think this will be a good idea because it is closed cell, and will virtually eliminate all negative space. The boat is a 14 foot tri-haul fiberglass boat, so the stringers are pretty shallow. How much foam do you think I’ll have to order?

2. I’m going to sand down the foam, and nail plywood over that. I’m thinking 1/4 inch to keep weight down. I’ve read that it makes a difference weather or not you use marine quality plywood. Regardless, I’m planning on glassing over it so will it actually make a difference? Is 1/4 inch okay?

3. After I screw down the plywood, with stainless steel screws of course, I am planning on fiberglassing it. This is what I need most help on. Is it like bondo? Do I have to lay fiberglass sheets? Like the fabric stuff.

4. After it cures, I’m going to sand it, and apply some sort of marine paint. I’ll make sure it has the texture in it to prevent slipping. I don’t want to put carpet back down because it is heavy, and it smells when it gets wet and never dries.

So, if anyone has done this before and has some pointers, by all means let me know. I am basically starting from scratch so all advice will be appreciated. And for those of you who are experts in this, product brand names, and types, will also be helpful. Also, estimated amounts of material needed for a 14 foot boat would be helpful.

Thank you SOOOO much in advance for any help you have to offer.

Have a great day!!! (or night for that matter…)

Let’s start with the plywood. In the old days marine plywood had water proof glue and other types did not. Now almost all plywood uses water proof glue.

1/4′ is to thin. the weight will not make a big difference, you need the strength….go with 1/2 inch.

I don’t know what you are going to Screw to…….you normally "glass it in place. Use polyester (fiberglass) resin and yes the "cloth" strips to join the plywood at the edges and stringers. Then a light cloth or mat (16 oz.) and more fiberglass resin to coat the floor. you can add non-skid material if you like but do a test first to see if you really want it.

Bondo is filled polyester resin. That’s not what your looking for.

I know alot about urethane foam in boats. i think it will be easier to buy Foam board, 1" and 11/2" thick and just lay it in place. You can get this at Home Depot (the yellow not the pink foam with foil on one side, plastic on the other. Cuts with razor knife (I can hear the moans now) Yes I know……but in your case the foam in place is an added complication. If you fill 75-80% of the void your good to go, and this will not adsorb water like the other foam did. And just fit is as best you can, don’t worry about sanding it down. Even put two or more layers where you need to.

Fiber glass "cloth" actually looks like cloth. Mat on the other hand is random and works better for floors.
Mix pigment in the resin and you will not need to paint at all. experiment, and get pigment at the paint store (you can also use a thickener or micro balloons).

On a 14′ tri hull three sheets of plywood will have some left over…..a 1 1/2 gal of resin 2 packs 60×90 mat, maybe 30 ft of 6" strip cloth. Some filler and pigment…3 or 4 4×8 boards of foam.

If you deside to decide to foam in place the kits come in 2 quarts/ or 2 gal. You want to get 2 pounds per cubic foot density pour foam. and your going to need 8 to 10 cubic feet. that’s a 2 gal.kit.

You can get wood and foam at home Depot/ Lowes and fiberglass resin there or auto parts places, also at Walmart.

Good Luck!

Which is light, warm, and compact: Closed-cell foam pads, Open-Cell foam pads, air mattresses, or self-inflating pads? I currently have a Therm-A-Rest Ridge Rest, and it’s kinda warm and pretty light, but it’s a bit bulky.

Paige Falk swears by the Big Agnes Insulated Air Core Mummy Pad – Regular $69.95 It’s an award winner! Packs up the size of your Nalgene Bottle.
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=47994878&parent_category_rn=40001452
http://paigefalk.smugmug.com/